[title subtitle=”words and images: Laura Hobbs”][/title]
Approaching Ouray, Colorado from the north, what begins as a vast expanse of high plains narrows into hardly more than a slot canyon as you enter the city limits. Nestled in a mountain gorge carved by the Uncompahgre River, this nineteenth century mining town once boasted a population of more mules than people. Today, Ouray’s plus-or-minus 1,000 residents still look to mining–and more recently, tourism—as a way to make ends meet.
In winter, piles of snow looming in parking lots tell stories of recent and abundant snowfall. But in the summer months, this canyon sees gorgeous weather: warm in the day and mild at night, with regular and brief thunderstorms accumulated by the summer’s warm breezes cooling as they sweep up mountainsides.
This small town offers activities to keep the eco-active crowd happy: snowshoeing in winter, hiking in summer, ice climbing during the colder months. For the more sedentary sort, the town is full of quaint shops, historic buildings, and even an alchemy museum to explore.
But the draw that appeals to most (if not all) visitors is the hot springs, which have acted as a natural respite for the bone-weary for centuries. Seated on a large geological lift at the head of the Uncompahgre Valley, Ouray boasts underground fissures that emit water at temperatures ranging from eighty to 150 degrees Fahrenheit. The results are a series of clean and odorless hot springs, created by the same geologic forces that made the town rich in minerals and ore.
Sound like a perfect mountain getaway destination? It certainly is. Here are five must-sees, dos, and eats in and around Ouray.
Wiesbaden Hot Springs
Perched on a hillside off the beaten path sits the Wiesbaden, an Ouray spa and lodging mainstay for over fifty years. Built atop a continually flowing hot spring source, this intimate lodge and day spa offers an outdoor hot spring pool, private soaking room, and the famous vapor cave, an underground chamber capturing the spring water right from the source at a eye-opening 108 degrees. Ready to feel at one with nature and the universe? This place is ground zero for ethereal interconnection.
Day passes available;
625 5th Street, Ouray, CO;
970-325-4347; wiesbadenhotsprings.com
Beaumont Hotel
Recently renovated with a loving ode to the nineteenth century, this landmark hotel is steeped in cowboy and miner history. Built in 1886 at the height of the “Gold Boom,” the Beaumont originally sat across the street from six saloons and acted as the grand centerpiece of Ouray. Today, it retains its tenure and acts as a great place to get some sleep, grab a drink, eat a meal, or maybe even spot a ghost.
Room & spa packages available;
505 Main Street, Ouray, CO;
970-325-7000; beaumonthotel.com
Ourayle House Brewery
Between the two breweries in Ouray, Ourayle House’s charmingly grumpy owner, great beer and (surprisingly!) inviting bar makes it the winner. Order your beer in two sizes: His (small) or Hers (large) and rest your post-hike legs by the pot-bellied stove on a cool evening. The game collection, including a beer-stained Jenga set, adds to the fun, or just sit back and eavesdrop on the locals. You’re bound to hear some interesting tales. Cash only, folks.
215 7th Avenue, Ouray, CO;
ouraylehouse.com
Million Dollar Highway
What’s equally fun and dangerous? Looking out the passenger window and realizing there’s something missing: the ground. This twisted ribbon of narrow blacktop is the Ouray-to-Silverton stretch of the San Juan Skyway Scenic Byway, meandering over Red Mountain Pass at a breathtaking 11,018 feet. With little room for error and plenty of clench-worthy moments, this stunning piece of American civil engineering offers plenty of sightseeing opportunities, whether it’s the gorgeous scenery or your life flashing in front of your eyes. Traveling in winter? Check Colorado’s Department of Transportation for road closures: COTrip.org
Outlaw Restaurant
Western charm, a friendly atmosphere, and a hat that belonged to none other than John Wayne: this historic Ouray restaurant has them all. Offering down-home western fare that often breaks the never-eat-anything-bigger-than-your-head rule, you’ll leave with both your stomach and your soul feeling full. Or was that just the T-bone steak?
610 Main Street, Ouray, CO;
970-325-4366; outlawrestaurant.com
Have a few extra days? The fun doesn’t stop in Ouray: tooling around other towns in the San Juans is definitely worth your while. Visit the town of Silverton, a western throwback that’s an hour’s zip down the Million Dollar Highway. Spend the night in ritzy Telluride, only ten miles away as the crow flies, but a scenic fifty-mile drive. Or take the train ride of a lifetime on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. (Go first class. It’s worth every penny.) durangotrain.com
Whether you’re looking for an exciting mountain adventure or a low-key escape, Ouray’s unique history, jaw-dropping scenery and friendly atmosphere are just a few of the perks (or do I mean peaks?) of a great high-altitude summer getaway.
